Clothing Alterations for Wheelchair Users
One of the greatest wishes and most challenging tasks for wheelgirls is finding fashionable clothing that is current and self-expressive. Specialized clothing manufacturers do offer a variety of pants, shirts, jackets and lounge wear for the disabled population, but their target audience typically is the Medicare set—those 65 years old and older.
Wheelgirl advocates shopping at mainstream stores, selecting appropriately flattering clothing and having the garments altered to fit individual needs.
How do we define flattering clothing for those who sit?
Jeans, Slacks, Capri Pants, Shorts
In the jeans, slacks and Capri department, wheelgirl recommends waistbands that sit on the hips. The front of the pants will fit just perfectly while the back of the pants will benefit from a long shirt tucked into the waistband. If current fashion limits the availability of hip huggers, wheelgirls can compensate for a too tight “sitting” waistband by creating two slits in the waistband. Cut into the waistband 2 to 3 inches from the center zipper and double stitch the cut material to prevent the fabric from raveling.
Another suggestion is to remove some of the front of the waistband and to replace it with elastic inserts, which will allow flexibility and comfort for the sitter. And, if those efforts fail or the sitter needs a quick fix, there is always the trick of extending a waistband by way of a rubber band or hair tie. Simply loop it through the buttonhole and onto the button.
Hemming pants is frequently required for wheelchair users. You may wish to reduce the width of the pant leg before you attack its length. It is best to straight pin options before attempting to sew and cut. When you hem the pant leg, allow a flexible length to accommodate sandals as well as winter shoes. Measure your ideal length and then add one and one-half to three inches before cutting the fabric. Fold the fabric twice, pin and sew it in place by hand or by machine.
Wheelgirl feels it is really difficult to look cute and slender while sitting in shorts because sitting makes thighs look larger than they really are. Besides, shorts make probable sunburns, a real problem when traveling outdoors during sunny and sometimes hot weather.
Skirts and Dresses
The best choices in the dress department for wheelgirls are dresses with the graceful and forgiving empire line bodice: surprisingly, it does not make one look bloated because it falls and skims the waist. A generously full skirt made with thin, filmy fabric creates a comfortable and flowing appearance while sitting and especially while dancing. The bodice can be strapless, have spaghetti straps, a halter-top or even off-the-shoulder sleeve. Trial of various styles will determine the most flattering top depending on the wheelgirl’s shoulders. Small shoulders can handle spaghetti straps or off-the-shoulder sleeves as well as boat necklines. Large shoulders can be minimized in other ways: sometimes scoop necklines, sometimes a longer sleeve. Sometimes showcasing large shoulders might be the answer. Experiment with pins and needles and then make your alterations.
The skirt part of the dress might flow over your lap at over your knees or longer. You can add interest and a dynamic touch to your skirt by considering a bias cut hemline or a very dramatic diagonal hemline. Also, consider layers of different hemlines, or sleek flounces, possibly cut on a diagonal.
Also, be aware: Typically, a sitter skirt is at least 5 inches longer in the back than it is in the front, so plan and accommodate.
Finally, sitter dresses, especially the fancy ones, can benefit from “seatbelt conceal” slit. While wearing the dress, belt up and mark the spot wear the seatbelt touches the dress at the side seam line. Remove stitches at that spot, allowing an additional 2 inches wider than the seatbelt. Reinforce the slit with stitches. If the dress has a lining or several layers, place the seatbelt between the layers so it does not irritate bare skin.
Swimsuits
One-piece swimsuits and tankinis are good choices for wheelgirls. Ideally, suits with cross back straps are more practical. However, suits with wide, open backs can be easily altered with black or white 1 inch elastic. Stitch two bands of elastic about four inches apart and starting about seven inches from the neckline. The actual length of the elastic should span the width of the back opening; it will stretch sufficiently when the suit slipped over the hips.
Jackets
Jackets require frequent sleeve alterations. But be care when shortening those sleeves. Leave adequate length for optional cuffing and covering hands on cold mornings. See instructions on hemming pants when it comes to hemming sleeves.
Additionally, some jackets and sweatshirts may require additional nips and tucks in the shoulder area. The best option is to pin the cuff to its ideal length and then pin the shoulder, taking up extra fabric with straight pins. Frequently, it is only the shoulder part of the sleeve and not the underarm part that needs to be altered. Pin the entire sleeve before basting the alteration. Try it on and evaluate the alteration. Do you need to take extra steps to make the garment look great? Experiment and get it right.
Remember that the most practical garments are those made with natural fibers with a bit of spandex to allow for that stretch.
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